Every fragrance composition present in a cosmetic formula (perfumes, essential oils, flavors…) must comply with cosmetic regulations, but not only. In fact, all fragrances present in cosmetic products must also comply with the latest IFRA amendment.
But what is IFRA? We tell you all about it here
Founded in Geneva in 1973, IFRA is the International Fragrance Association, the official international representative body of the fragrance industry. Its main aim is to ensure the safety of fragrance raw materials for health and the environment, through a dedicated scientific program.
IFRA’s Standards are the best practices that guarantee the safety of fragrance compositions subsequently used in various fields, such as cosmetics formulation.
Fragrance composition is a complex and confidential mixture, and compliance with the IFRA standard, and the supplier’s IFRA certificate, is a necessary reference for the toxicologist in assessing the safety of the cosmetic product.
The IFRA amendment has two main consequences:
– prohibitions: banning the use of certain ingredients
– Restrictions: rules governing the quantities or maximum doses to be used, or the products in which certain materials may be used.
A cosmetic product must comply with the latest IFRA amendment. However, IFRA applies to fragrance raw materials; it does not apply directly to the finished product, but rather indirectly, so there is no compliance deadline for formulas.
With each new amendment, the cosmetics manufacturer must obtain the new IFRA certificate from the fragrance supplier. Depending on the changes, the fragrance in the formula may have to be reduced or reformulated. Updated labeling and safety assessment may also be required, depending on the changes to the formula.
On June 30, 2023, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) notified the 51st amendment to its Standards. IFRA establishes these rules according to product type, and has therefore defined 12 categories present on IFRA 51. Each category has a maximum % that must not be exceeded.
Category 1: No-rinse products applied to the lips:
Ex: Lip products of all types; Children’s toys
Category 2: No-rinse products applied to the underarms (or body)
Ex: Deodorants and antiperspirants; Body sprays
Category 3: Products generally applied to the face with the fingertips
Ex: Eye products; Face make-up; Face and eye make-up removers;
Category 4: Fragrance products generally applied to the neck, face and wrists
Ex: Hydroalcoholic and non-hydroalcoholic fine fragrances; Scented bracelets
Category 5: No-rinse products applied with the palms of the hands to the face and body.
- 5A
Ex: Body products; Foot care products; Insect repellents - 5B
Ex: Facial tonics; Facial moisturizers and creams - 5C
Ex : Hand creams; Nail care products; Hand sanitizers - 5D
Ex : Baby creams/milks, baby oils, baby powders and talcs
Catégorie 6 : Produits avec exposition buccale/lèvres
Ex : Dentifrices ; Bains de bouche ; Poudres dentifrices
Catégorie 7 : Produits appliqués avec les mains sur les cheveux
• 7A
Ex : Traitements capillaires permanents ou autres traitements chimiques pour les cheveux
• 7B
Ex : Sprays pour les cheveux de tous types ; Aides au coiffage des cheveux ; Shampooings secs
Catégorie 8 : Produits avec une exposition anogénitale significative
Ex : Lingettes intimes ; Lingettes pour bébés ; spray déodorant intime
Catégorie 9 : Produits à rincer avec exposition du corps et des mains
Ex : Savons solides ; Shampooings ; Nettoyants pour le visage pour le corps et gels douche
Catégorie 10 : Produits d’entretien ménager avec contact principalement avec les mains
- 10A
Ex : Détergent pour lavage à la main ; Lingettes de siège de toilette - 10B
Ex : Sprays pour animaux ; Désodorisants en spray ; parfum pour les toilettes
Category 11: Products intended to come into contact with the skin, but with minimal transfer of fragrance to the skin from an inert substrate
- 11A
Ex: Conventional tampons, pads; Diapers (baby and adult) - 11B
Ex: Tights with moisturizers; Perfumed socks, gloves; Paper handkerchiefs
Category 12: Products not intended for direct skin contact, minimal or insignificant skin transfer
Ex: Candles; Insecticides; Foam or incense sticks; Olfactory board games
Sources:
https://cosmeticobs.com/fr/articles/lexique-cosmetique-5/ifra-969
Guidance for the use of IFRA Standards, IFRA-RIFM, 12 décembre 2019
Cosmed TV Impact des amendements IFRA sur vos cosmétiques : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljK507phfr4