Nathalie Vernin

COSMOS Standard V4 Overview

At the beginning of January 2023, a new version V4 was announced, with the aim of continuously improving this standard.

Why this new standard? What are the main changes?

We explain it all here.

The COSMOS standard is guided by four fundamental principles:

  • Promote the use of organic products and respect biodiversity.
  • Use natural resources responsibly and with respect for the environment.
  • Use clean processes that respect human health and the environment.
  • Integrate and develop the concept of green chemistry.

Version V4 of the COSMOS standard was created with a view to improvement:

  • Ensure that the criteria remain demanding and ambitious.
  • Promote best practices while ensuring that the standard remains accessible.
  • Use petrochemicals as little as possible.
  • Integrate and develop the concept of “green chemistry.”
  • Anticipate and reflect consumer expectations in terms of safety, sustainability, and traceability.

What are the priorities of the new version of COSMOS?

1. Reinforcement of current criteria:

  • Sustainable sourcing of palm oil and its derivatives: This now applies to all products and raw materials (including blends). All palm derivatives must be certified organic or sustainable. Recognition of sustainable certifications: Version 4 is open to other certifications, so RSPO is no longer the only certification in this standard. SAN, RSB, and UEBT certifications are now also recognized.
  • Sourcing of organic ingredients (COSMOS ORGANIC only): Addition of 24 new plants to the list of mandatory organically sourced ingredients (e.g. Cypress, Eucalyptus, Geranium, Lemongrass, Mint, Orange, Patchouli, Tea tree). Certifications according to Organic Agriculture regulations (CE, NOP, JAS or equivalent) grouped within the IOFAM Family of Standards or other internationally recognized organic standards (e.g. COSMOS) are accepted.

2. Mineral ingredients and ingredients of mineral origin:

  • Limitation on the use of ingredients of mineral origin: 8 ingredients of mineral origin are now prohibited: Aluminium sulfate, barium sulfate, copper, copper sulfate, silver chloride, ferrous sulfate, potassium thiocyanate, zinc carbonate.
  • Restriction on the use of titanium dioxide (TiO2): It is authorized as a sunscreen, in nano and/or non-nano form, and as a decorative cosmetic in non-nano form. For all other products, the use of TiO2 is prohibited.
  • Clarification of nanoparticle criteria: Certain ingredients in nanoparticulate form are authorized (e.g., UV filters and silica). All other ingredients in nano form are prohibited. A quantitative SEM analysis is required for UV filters, silica, cerium dioxide, and hydroxyapatite.
  • Integration of reinforced commitment on ingredients of mineral origin: Additional information is required for assessing ingredient compliance:
    • Mass efficiency of reaction ≥ 50%
    • Examine and reduce energy consumption during manufacturing
    • Minimize waste during manufacturing
    • Ensuring the health and safety of people throughout the supply chain

3. Sulfated surfactants:

  • Limiting the use of sulfated surfactants: Ban on sulfated surfactants.
    • For non-rinse-off products: Ban from June 1, 2024, for new products and from December 1, 2025, for old products.
    • For rinsed products: Ban from January 1, 2029, for all products.

Additional considerations:

  • Endangered species: Raw materials must not be harvested by endangered species listed in the IUCN red list (e.g., Pig-tailed Macaque for coconut harvesting).
  • Packaging: The new version encourages cosmetics manufacturers to use sustainable packaging. Each packaging format must respect at least 3 indicators divided into 2 different criteria (Reduce, Renew, Recycle, Reuse).

Neo Cosmetics can help you make the transition to this new standard. For more information, please contact us by e-mail: info.neocosmetique@fr

Sources:

Webinar/ document ECOCERT: version 4 of the COSMOS standard – the main changes